There are many ways to set up when fishing with floats. Here are a few of the more popular methods:
1). Fishing small streams and rivers - thread your main line through two pieces of silicone tubing and attach your float. This will allow your float to be easily adjusted on your main line, and you can also change the size of float without re-tying. Tie your main line to a tiny black swivel and add an 18- to 24-inch leader that is lighter in breaking strength than your main line to the other end of the swivel (another option is to tie your leader on your main line with a surgeon's knot). Add your hook to the tag end of the leader and you are ready to add the weights. There are several ways to add weights, but staggering black split shots from just under the float to the swivel is the most common method. Start by adding the largest split shots just under the float, then decrease the size of the split shots as you get closer to the hook, being careful to stagger the shot evenly. Your smallest shot should be closer to the hook, and the largest shot should be closest to your float.
2). Fishing large rivers with fast current - thread your main line through two pieces of silicone tubing and attach a large balsa or foam float. A slip float can be used in lieu of the fixed float. Thread your main line through an appropriately sized egg sinker (or another style of slip sinker), and tie off to a black swivel. Add an 18- to 36-inch leader that is lighter in breaking strength than your main line to the other end of the swivel and add a hook.
3). Slip floats for deeper water or light bites in slow or no current areas - thread an adjustable float stop on your main line, then add a slip float and tie off to a black swivel. Add an 18- to 36-inch leader that is lighter in breaking strength than your main line to the other end of the swivel and add a hook and the weights. Some elastic style float stops can be tied onto your main line as a last step. Just moisten your main line and slide the float stop to the desired depth you would like to target. You can fish your bait 20-feet deep over 21-feet of water with a slip float if desired. A tailor's soft measuring tape can work well to measure the distance from your hook to the float stop and as a bonus; you can measure your fish with the very same tape.
Whichever method of float fishing you choose, it is imperative to add just enough weight so that the float sits properly in the water. This is usually indicated by the "water line" on the float. If you add too much weight, your float will be pulled under water, and if you don't have enough weight your float will not be pulled under easily when a fish strikes your bait. The type of water you are fishing should determine the style of float. For example: a shorter and wider type of float should be used in fast moving water (such as rapids) and a skinny elongated float should be used for flat calm or slow current areas. Also, the size and type of the hook is determined by the size and type of bait you are using. Just make sure they are evenly matched. Another option is to use a jig under the float to replace the weights. Again, make sure the weight of the jig and size of float corresponds with one another.
A good snag-resistant replacement for a Lindy rig is what I refer to as a "slip slinky rig". I thread my main line through a two-way swivel, then a bead, and then I tie off to another two-way swivel. I then add a fluorocarbon leader to the two-way swivel I just tied my main line to and add an octopus hook. I then add an 8" dropper line to the two-way swivel that slips up and down the main line and add a snap swivel. I clip on a slinky weight to the snap swivel to finish off the rig. This is a stealthy approach for walleye that resists snags better than any other live-bait rigs that I have ever employed. This technique can also be used for other species with great results as well.
